Thursday, November 17, 2011

Reflections on the AT

A reflective essay concerning my journey on the Appalachian Trail

Why does one embark on a 2,181-mile trek, traversing mountains, boulders, notches, ravines, waterfalls and ridges- on foot? What motivates an individual to decide that this is the right endeavor for them? What does one learn along the way?

Solitude.
Serenity.
Connecting with man’s primal instincts.
Discovering a minimal lifestyle does produce true happiness.

Why did you want to do this hike?
There are two answers, one that lead me to do the hike and the other justifying my decision to complete it.

1) My roommate (Jake) asked me if I would like to join him, after college, to hike the Appalachian Trail. With only a day of thinking I replied, “Sure!” Where is it?”

2) I absolutely love pushing the human body to its limits, especially when it comes to endurance activities. Having never hiked a mile before in my life, it would only make sense to start my hiking career with a 2,181-mile adventure… My initial rationale for deciding to do such a tremendous hike is true, though there is another reason for my decision. I saw subtle hints of this in my life, yet I had a difficult time embracing them. It is something I would often find myself preaching, yet hardly practicing. Minimalism. As my college career was wrapping up, I was, at a snail’s pace, reducing the clutter and obstructions in my life. I knew that a frugal lifestyle is what I wanted to achieve, yet needed a strong nudge in that direction. The Appalachian Trail would be that nudge.

What did I learn?
People (yes, I am assuming that everyone does this) take numerous trivial aspects of their life for granted. Often we reflect and give thanks for our good health and our friends and family. Little do we give thanks for having a roof over our heads and a table full of food. We are so use to these “societal norms” that we look past those small, inconsequential aspects such as clean tap water, readily available at a moments notice. Hot water for your shower every morning. A table to eat dinner on. Screens to keep bugs out. A bed that you do not have to inflate every night. Enough clean clothes to last a month. Having more than 3 squares of toilet paper to use.
On the trail, we were ecstatic to find a clean, natural spring that was flowing fast enough to fill a Gatorade bottle. Taking a shower was scarce, and hot water was unheard of. A picnic table at your shelter produced pure joy. Soft, level ground for pitching your tent was much appreciated (Jake and I would often end up rolling onto the other in the night if there was even just a slight slant). Putting on a new pair of socks after wearing the same ones for four days really does feel as amazing as it sounds.
With that being said, the small “victories” that we stumbled upon resulted in genuine happiness, gratitude and thankfulness.

Moreover, the trail taught me that there is a dichotomy of lifestyles: People who strive to accumulate more money, tangible assets and “things” to make them happy and others who live a frugal life, spending only what they need to and finding themselves living with less stress.

As much as I would love to live a minimalist life, I am often guilty of the first lifestyle. I own close to 25 pairs of shoes (which isn’t even a lot for some people!) though I do recognize this and have donated over half of the old pairs of shoes I no longer use. With that being said, I am not professing that everyone should give away all of their belongings and work for free. That is not true at all. In fact, I believe that we should all hold onto the most important things in life and make enough money to live comfortably. Some time ago I heard that money can essentially “buy” happiness- to a certain degree. Meaning that money can make one happier, up until a certain income level. Once that income level has been reached, money no longer contributes to ones happiness. I did a quick search online and found an article on CNBC titled Money Can Buy You Happiness, To a Point, which found that magical income level to be $75,000. Interesting.

There definitely was a bittersweet ending to the trail. Hiking 2,181 miles was a phenomenal experience, something I would never trade, regret or take back. It was worth every step, even the ones in Pennsylvania that were excruciatingly painful. With that being said, I was definitely looking forward to seeing my wonderful girlfriend who supported me 110% along the way, as well as getting back to running and cooking. There are many small comforts in life I missed, such as my bed, a hot shower, milk, my sanuks, coffee shops, cycling and my dog Charlie. I will never forget the friends I met, the priceless moments we shared and the only requirement I had to do – heard North.

Cheers!

Monday, October 10, 2011

AT Statistics

I'm a numbers guy. I collect statistics on my caloric intake, the mileage on my shoes and just about anything else that I deem quantifiable. Here are some basic stats from the hike:

Duration: 3 months, 28 days (121 days)

Started hiking: May 16th, 2011
Finished hiking: September 13th, 2011

2,181 / 121 days = 18.02 miles per day
2,181 / 117 days = 18.64 miles per day (only hiking days)

840th hiker to leave Amicalola Falls State Park (Georgia)
797th hiker to reach Harpers Ferry, roughly the half-way point (West Virginia)
312th hiker to reach - Baxter State Park, where Katahdin resides (Maine)
-Passed a total of 528 people from start to finish

Shoes:
Inov-8 X-Talon 212 - stellar treads, like a snow tire, minimalist support, good lacing system, sizing difficult, get 1/2 size larger.
Mileage: 0-135 = 135 miles

Brooks Cascadia 6 - loved this shoe. great tread, lasted almost 600 miles.
Mileage: 135-719.9 = 584.9

Vasque Mindbender - got a lot of mileage, decent tread, fit snug and firm but not too tight. form fitting. fairly lightweight
Mileage: 719.9-1285.3 = 565.4

Montrail AT + - great shank, really firm and solid on the PA rocks and roots. Crushed the top of my toes though.
Mileage: 1285.3-1440.1 = 154.8

Mizuno Wave Ascend 6 - comfortable shoe, I have two pairs of Elixir 4's with 1000 miles each. The tread only held up for 200 miles though, before it was falling off, not even wearing down.
Mileage: 1440.1-1739.2 = 299.1

Merrell ATR Seismic - the insole on the heel was too narrow for my foot, which when it grew slightly it rubbed up against the side, causing blisters and calluses to form.
Mileage: 1739.2-1792 = 52.8

Merrell Chameleon Stretch 3 - vibram sole, fantastic tread. never had any issues slipping or gaining traction. fit was alright though I did have some blisters form on the heel though that may have been due to getting the shoe tight enough so that it did not slide around. with the cinch lacing system it was a little more difficult to get a snug fit.
Mileage: 1792-1883.1 = 91.1

Pearl Izumi Peak XC - definitely a trail runner, not a trail hiking shoe. The mesh was torn apart very quickly and large holes started appearing. comfortable though!
Mileage: 1883.1-2181 = 297.9

Best day: Hitch with Dr. John or our lakeside cabin stay in Rangeley
Worst Day: Day 71 or Day 117
Best Scene: Grayson Highlands or Height Mountain
Most difficult section: Pennsylvania

Because I have an ultralight pack I can justify carrying the following:
  • 750ml bottle of Lovingston Wine (30 miles, just under 2 lbs)
  • 2 pounds of Old WI Summer Sausage
  • 1 pound can of Boiled Green Peanuts
  • Inflated Beach Ball
  • Biscuits 'n gravy in a ziplock bag
  • 1 pound of bell peppers

Tuesday, October 4, 2011

Day 121 - KATAHDIN!!!

September 13 - Katahdin Stream Campground to Katahdin - 5.2 miles

Woke up at 4:30am to break camp. Only slept about three hours last night. Probably due to the anticipation of summiting this magnificent mountain.

There are many trails that lead up to the summit but the AT uses the Hunt Trail, which is a very difficult, strenuous and challenging trail. We began at 5:17am.

After hiking in the dark for about 45 minutes, the sun finally broke over the mountains, providing rays of light glistening through the trees.


The climb was pretty steep, rocky and full of surprises.


Of course, we had to take a quick pee break on our way up.


At about 7:45am we reached the sign.


Summiting Katahdin was, as every has always said, outstanding, phenomenal, breath-taking, awe-inspiring and the like. Honestly though, it was a little sign, on the top of a barren, quiet mountain, in a misty grey cloud. With that being said, I wouldn't have it any other way.

Since we got up as early as we did, we took some time to enjoy ourselves, soak it all in, and drink a beer.



The temperature at 5,270 ft was not ideal for shorts and a t-shirt so we bundled up in our warm bags.


To all of my LOTR followers: yes I did attempt to melt the One Ring. Unfortunately, my alcohol stove was not able to reach a high enough temperature to incinerate metal, but it did turn green/blue when it was burning.


Left to right: Frodo, Sweet Tea, Happy Feet, Samwise, Stretch


Day 120 - Katahdin Stream Campground

September 12 - Rainbow Stream Lean-To to Katahdin Stream Campground - 25.1 miles

Going to reach the base of Katahdin today... that's an incomprehensible thought.

Loaded up on calories this morning with a Bacon Peanut Butter bagel. It may have contained a few too many fat calories. Oh well.


Katrieva (Happy Feet's girl) brought us a great ensemble for dinner. From fresh ham and turkey deli sandwiches (with tomatoes and spinach) to chips and salsa, to indulgent cookie bars, we were very thankful for everything she did. Thank you Katrieva!

Day 119 - Views of Katahdin

September 11 - Cooper Brook Falls Lean-To to Rainbow Stream Lean-To - 29.6 miles

Extremely cold morning, really felt like fall, almost winter. Elevation has been ideal for big miles - super flat.

Gorgeous views of Katahdin.


Found a ziploc bag of large blueberry muffins sitting on a bridge. We devoured them.

Annie's Mac n Cheese w/ Taco Tortillini for dinner.

Day 118 - Thanksgiving Dinner!

September 10 - Chairback Mtn Lean-To to Cooper Brook Falls Lean-To - 28.8 miles

31 degrees during the night - thank you Marmot Arroyo 30 degree down for keeping me alive.

Last set of climbing toady, no more "mountains," just a few small hills.

Received some awesome trail magic from a couple we met out doing a day hike. They provided us with cherry tomatoes, wheat thins, sweet tea, toilet paper and even took our trash!

Samwise and I were spoiled for dinner. Our hiking buddy Kevin from PA sent us a gourmet Thanksgiving trail dinner to Monson. He had it himself and thought we would enjoy it too. He was right. This meal goes down in the top five favorite trail meals.

Thanksgiving Trail Dinner (x2):
  • Dehydrated turkey
  • Dehydrated vegetable medley
  • Stuffing mix
  • 6oz of cranberries
  • Kevin's special mix of seasonings


Monday, October 3, 2011

Day 117 - Silhouettes with Stretch

September 9 - Monson, ME to Chairback Mtn Lean-To - 26.0 miles

Entered the "100 Mile Wilderness" today. It is known for it's desolation, remoteness and big game. They recommend taking 10 days worth of food with you to traverse this section. We only packed three days worth.


Started hiking with Stretch today. He started his journey March 1 - 2.5 months before us. Even though he started as early as he did, he still hikes just as fast, if not faster.

Left to right: Stretch, Frodo, Samwise, Sweet Tea and Happy Feet
Pretty shitty day today:
  • Camera got wet in a ford crossing. It doesn't work anymore
  • Discovered trench foot from 5 days of walking in wet shoes
  • The new liner socks have rubbed my heels raw
  • Lost a sock in the ford, only 1 pair left
  • Miscalculated our mileage and walked for hours in the dark
  • Ran into a bee hive on the ground, almost everyone got stung

Even though today seemed miserable, we had another phenomenal sunset.


Sunday, October 2, 2011

Day 116 - Improvised Apple Picking

September 8 - Bald Mtn Lean-To to Monson, ME - 22.0 miles

Picked wild apples on our way to Monson. Without the proper tools to pick the apples, we had to improvise:


We were re-routed to Blanchard, ME due to the Piscataquis River being treacherous to cross, according to some locals. It was a 6-mile road walk, which was tough on our knees. We did average 4 mph on the road though!

Had the most amazing BBQ pulled pork sandwich from Spring Creek Bar-B-Q.


I would have taken a picture of my sandwich but I was so hungry it was gone in seconds. Sorry folks!

Day 115 - Kennebec River Ferry Crossing

September 7 - West Carry Pond Lean-To to Bald Mtn Lean-To - 28.7 miles

Headlamp batteries finally died after 1,700 miles. Those lithium ion ones really do last 10x longer!

Hauled ass for the first 13.7 miles to catch the morning Kennebec Ferry, which runs from 9-11am and 1-3pm. We arrived at 10:35am to find out that we were his last ferry across for two days. With the recent hurricane and all of the rain, the river has become too dangerous to cross, even in a canoe.


From the MATC:

The Kennebec River is the most formidable un-bridged crossing along the entire 2,174-mile Appalachian Trail.
The Kennebec is approximately 70 yards wide with a swift, powerful current under the best of circumstances. However, as a result of releases of water from hydro facilities upstream, the depth and current of the river surge quickly and unpredictably. You cannot cross faster than the water level rises.



Day 114 - Log Bogs in Maine

September 6 - Horns Pond Lean-To to West Carry Pond Lean-To - 17.5 miles

Rained all night and in to the morning. Today was the most difficult to leave my super warm down sleeping bag and put on my wet stinky clothes. So, instead of packing up I crawled out, grabbed my food bag and got back in my sleeping bag. Breakfast in bed anyone?

Today we had to cross some "Log Bogs" on the trail. Log Bogs are make-shift bridges, usually long planks of wood or a tree cut in half. They are primarily found over wet marshes or well trodden muddy areas. This particular section did not function quite as it was supposed to...

Friday, September 30, 2011

Day 113 - Family Dinner: Trail Tacos!

September 5 - Spaulding Mtn Lean-To to Horns Pond Lean-To - 18.6 miles

Had another one of those moments where I felt like my life was in danger this morning. The following video best describes my sentiments.



I've never crossed a ford before as fast as this one.

Got a hitch within 15 seconds of sticking out our thumb. The best part is that the road is completely shut down a mile back so if this van did not pick us up then we never would have gotten a ride.

Re-supplied and probably purchased too many candy bars, along with raspberry streusel bites and freshly baked cookies and Steve's Pumpkin Whoopie Pie. Oh the hiker hunger.

After a successful venture with Tacos about a month ago, we decided to bring it back. I started calling it our "Family" dinner as we would all be dining together, every carrying a portion of the meal. Here's what we had:
15oz chicken, 2 rice Knorr sides, 1 green bell pepper, 1 tomato, 1 can refried beans, 1 lb sour cream, 20 flour tortillas, 1 large bag of taco cheese.
It was definitely a gourmet meal, blowing the traditional ramen out of the water.


Day 112 - Cribbage in the Privy

September 4 - Rangeley, ME to Spaulding Mtn Lean-To - 18.7 miles

Our lovely hosts threw together a hearty breakfast of eggs, bacon, sausage, OJ and a raspberry muffin. It was a bittersweet departure.

The caretaker at the Piazza Rock Lean-To asked to take a picture of our beards - I was honored!

Samwise and I took a shit in the two-man privy today, primarily because the builder of the privy decided to install a cribbage board between the seats.


Avoided a torrential downpour with our impeccable timing. Thank you for the weather update dad!

Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Day 111 - Trail Magic in Rangeley, ME

September 3 - Sabbath Day Pond Lean-To to Rangeley, ME - 9.4 miles

It's astonishing how everything just falls in to place when you really need it to. That's exactly what happened in Rangeley, ME.

Mom, Dad, I know that you always taught me to never take candy from strangers but these "strangers" (soon to become amazing people) offered us laundry, hot showers and a hiker dinner. I, without hesitation, said yes.

Before I divulge into this outstanding trail magic experience, I need to mention a few other happenings that make Rangeley my favorite trail town.

After hiking 9.4 miles to the trail head, we found a quick ride in to town and immediately started looking for a diner for breakfast. A lady we met on the sidewalk suggested the BMC Diner, as she was headed there herself. We heeded her advice and gave BMC our business. When we were ready to pay for our meal, the waitress informed us that it had been taken care of. We were baffled. Who would buy us breakfast? The waitress told us of the lady who paid for our meal, which was the same one we met on the sidewalk. Bless her heart!

After breakfast we hit up the library to catch up on emails and to check our bank accounts so we don't run out of money. 11 blog entries later I needed a break so Samwise and I went to get milkshakes and fries. I love milkshakes.

Right before we made our way to the library we stopped at the Outfitter to get some fuel and a buckle for Samwise. It's a good thing we did.
Brian and Lourrie offered to give us a ride back to their cozy cabin on the lake where we could take a hot shower, do laundry and enjoy dinner and breakfast with them.
They even let us watch Aladdin on VHS! For dessert we had pie with ice cream... yum.




Brian and Lourrie - Thank you so so much for everything you did. We were in dire need of showers and laundry and even more so, a warm, comfortable place to relax and recharge. Your hospitality will go a long way, as well as the experience and wisdom you embarked upon us.

Day 110 - Food Management

September 2 - Hall Mtn Lean-To to Sabbath Day Pond Lean-To - 21.1 miles

Poor food management today - I was rationing my food to the last calorie. Knowing that I had to save my food was an elemental feeling of survival. I'll survive, heck, people have survived on a whole lot less (like potatoes or white rice) but all I know is that it's a frightening feeling.

Happy Feet saw two moose right before the shelter. Lucky him.

Day 109 - Lunch in Andover

September 1 - Baldpate Lean-To to Hall Mtn Lean-To - 14.0 miles

Southern Maine is difficult. Fact. The steep, slippery, bald-faced rock descents were not something to just galavant down.


Ran into Birch, Buscemi, Slider and Stroller at lunch. They are all slackpacking (having someone else transport your stuff so you can hike with a super light pack) to do some big miles due to their summit deadline.


Lunch in Andover consisted of a double bacon cheeseburger (loaded) with waffle fries, chocolate milk, a cinnamon twist pastry, mixed berry pie with butter pecan ice cream and an ice cream sandwich. It filled me up! Hah. I think I could have ate a bit more too...

Monday, September 26, 2011

Day 108 - Mahoosuc Notch

August 31 - Carlo Col Shelter to Baldpate Lean-To - 16.4 miles

Tackled the infamous "Mahoosuc Notch" today. It will usually take an average hiker about one hour to complete this 1-mile long section. It is a difficult leg of the trail but also a ton of fun. The deep gap is peppered with large boulders and crevasses that seem impassable but you will eventually find yourself on the other side, though it may take 10-15 minutes. There were a few spots where we had to remove our packs to squeeze through a narrow hole!

Check out this video of me, almost falling on my face in the notch:




We ended up running the last 2.5 miles to the shelter. I was hungry and really couldn't wait for dinner so I entered Beast Mode and kicked it up a few notches. It was great.

Day 107 - Maine!!

August 30 - Gorham, NH to Carlo Col Shelter - 17.0 miles

Today was a tough day for me. I fell twice. Hard. One of the falls was a 25ft slide down a bald rock face. That was scary. I am definitely taking it slower from here on out.

Entered Maine today! We're finally here!!! Our 14th and final State.


Ran into Birch, Slider and Stroller at the Shelter and had dinner with them. Birch, Slider and Stroller all took some nasty falls too.

Day 106 - 2nd 0 in Gorham

August 29 - 2nd 0 in Gorham, NH - 0 miles

Spent another day watching TV. Sweet Tea and I found ourselves laughing out loud to Looney Tunes and Tom and Jerry. Yeah, we're pretty cool.

I eventually made my way out of the hotel room to the public library, where they charge $1 for 30 minutes. What!? Well, I jumped on for a bit but could not get myself to fork over another dollar.

Hit up the Chinese AYCE buffet for dinner. Definitely ate too much again, but it was worth it. Right as we were about to leave they brought out a tray of freshly baked sugar donuts. I grabbed three then decided I was done.

Day 105 - 0 in Gorham, NH

August 28 - 0 in Gorham, NH - 0 miles

Yes, we are not hiking again. This is our third 0 (non hiking day). It's actually kind of funny. Legally we cannot hike. Due to hurricane Irene, the White Mountain National Forest has been closed, including any trails that run through it, such as the AT. We only have 15 more miles in this National Forest but are forced to wait a few days.

Our gracious hosts at White Mountains Lodge provided us with a shuttle to Walmart so we could stock up on food for the war (our two days in Gorham).

Ran into So Far again, Slider, Stroller, Birch, Como and Elbe again! It was great meeting up with our friends. So Far crashed with us in our hotel room, making it a total of six stinky hikers.

Basically we sat around all day, watching movies, eating donuts and not hiking. It was awesome.

Day 104 - White Mountains Lodge and Hostel

August 27 - Height Mountain to Gorham, NH - 13.0 miles

Made it 40 minutes before Sweet Tea realized that he forgot his camera at the top of Height Mtn... that sucked. We told him to drop his pack and run back to save time. 25 minutes later he returned. He covered 80 minutes of walking in 25 minutes? Damn kid. He is pretty quick but it turned out that another hiker grabbed it and brought it along, saving him some time.

Our destination for today: White Mountains Lodge and Hostel. Lunch was from Mr. Pizza. 1/3 lb Bacon cheeseburgers with a half pound of fries, lemonade and sweet tea. I love bacon cheeseburgers.


Samwise and I threw together his signature Guacamole and a large cherry tomato, craisins, walnut, balsamic vinegrette, spinach salad.

Thursday, September 22, 2011

Day 103 - Height Mountain.

August 26 - Pinkham Notch, NH to Height Mtn - 8.1 miles

Had a great conversation with Hippy Kippy over breakfast about his career as a professor and his travels throughout the world. He told us of a piece of literature/work he is currently writing, analyzing the dichotomy of the AT to the Camino de Santiago. From our conversation he has invoked a flame within me to traverse this spiritual path. There are actually a few different routes, all varying distance and direction. The Northern Route is 512 miles and travels along the coast, though can be more difficult with the terrain and elevation.
The Camino Frances is the most popular route, traveling from St Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela at 484 miles. This particular route, described to us from Hippy Kippy, is completely different from the AT. First, you are a Pilgrim when you are on the trail. Second, there are some towns more frequently on the trail, literally on the trail. Each town usually has a church/hostel to provide accommodations and a cafe for coffee and churros. I cannot wait to get out there.

The most beautiful view on the AT thus far - Height Mountain. Absolutely gorgeous 360 panoramic views of the surrounding mountains, including the Presidential Mtn range. We decided to make dinner, watch the sunset and then star gaze afterwards. It was a very romantic setting for four dudes on top of a mountain.



Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Day 102 - Mt Washington / WWJD?

August 25 - Lakes of the Clouds Hut to Pinkham Notch, NH - 14.9 miles

Left the hut early today to avoid a potential storm coming our way. A quick 1.5 miles from Lakes of the Clouds Hut we summited Mt. Washington. Apparently you can see the ocean from up here, on a clear day. For us, we could barely see 10-15 feet in front of us. Easily the worst visibility we have had on the trip thus far.


The harsh elements we were exposed to actually made me fear for my life for the first time on the trip. It wasn't the bears in SNP or the rattlesnakes in Virginia but the raging 50mph winds over Mt. Washington that had me worried about craping my pants.


Upon arriving at Pinkham Notch we were faced with a 10 mile hitch in to Gorham, NH. After brainstorming different ideas for our cardboard sign, Sweet Tea suggests "WWJD." It worked flawlessly.

Day 101 - Lakes of the Clouds Hut

August 24 - Dry River Campground to Lakes of the Clouds Hut - 11.1 miles

Casually got back on the trail this morning as we had a fairly large climb awaiting us. Much to our surprise we dominated the mountain and found a gorgeous rock outcropping.


Had some phenomenal views of the Presidential Mountain Range. These pictures do not do the mountains justice. Mount Washington is the tallest peak in the range.


Arriving at Lakes of the Clouds Hut. This Hut easily had the most spectacular views.


Day 100 - Dry River Campground

August 23 - +Galehead Hut to Dry River Campground - 14.7 miles

Got an early start today as the Hut Crew had to prepare breakfast for the "paying" guests ($85-90/night) so they kicked us out at 6am. We made out way to Zealand Falls Hut, where we lounged around, made lunch (with fresh spinach from the hut) and were given gingerbread/cinnamon cake bars for free.



Eventually got a hitch to Crawford Notch Campground. I was astounded at how long it took to get a hitch, especially with what we were pulling off.


Ecstatic at riding in the bed of another truck
Before any of you make the same mistake, let me vent about Crawford Notch Campground. This private campground screwed us over. They were charging $0.79 for one pack of ramen! Who does that? They then tried charging the five of us $56 total to camp there. $56! Are you kidding me? Fortunately we thought to head back to the State Campground where we only had to pay $5 per person. Thank you Ranger John.